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Showing posts with label Science Fair Project. Show all posts

Drunken ROBOT Project


INTRODUCTION:

Parts and Tools

Here's the parts you'll need to make one pocket-sized drunken robot. But make more than one since it's no fun to drink alone.

Parts
1 vibrator motor from a pager or cell phone. (I used these. You can find the same motor here and here, though it seems distributors keep selling out. Just about any tube-shaped vibration motor with two metal tabs on the end will work. Search for more.)
1 AG13 button cell battery. A common watch battery that also goes by the aliases 357A, L1154, LR44, GPA76 or PX76A.
1 square inch of sheet tin, copper or other easy to work with metal sheeting. You can probably use a tin can but it might be hard to work with. I'll be using 0.008" sheet tin from the local hobby store.
The PDF template linked below.
Tools
Pliers
Tin snips. (or old crafty scissors you don't mind messing up to cut some tin.)
Now that you have everything, lets get started!

CUT THE TIN:
Print out the template from step 1 (also linked below) Be sure to print it at 100% and transfer the design to your piece of tin. (Cut it out and trace it or just glue it on with some temporary adhesive.)

Cut and snip your tin on the solid lines. Please be careful when cutting and handling sheet metal since it can get really sharp. Gloves and safety goggles are recommended.

NOTE THAT THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF THE BATTERY IS ON TOP


Make The Holder For The Battery:

We want to make a solid connection to the side and bottom of the battery. To do that first bend the piece of tin up at right angles where it's indicated on the diagram. Then place the battery in the middle and fold the arms around so it holds it securely.

Prepare The Motor:

Our pager motor has two leads. One needs to be connected to each side of the battery for the motor to work. 

The flat side of the battery (+) is already making contact with our tin support. To get a contact with the top of the battery (-) we bend one of the pins back underneath the motor. When we put the motor in place this lead will spring in contact with the top of the watch battery. (Picture is worth a few hundred words here.)

If you're using a different motor, say one with wires then you might need to get busy with a soldering iron to replicate what we have here. Do not solder directly to the battery. Applying that much heat to a battery is dangerous and can cause it to burst.


BEND ONE OF THE LEADS OF THE BATTERY AS SHOWN

Mount The Motor:

Now we're going to complete the circuit by crimping the motor (lightly!) into the top pair of tabs. This will press the bent tab in contact with the top of the battery and the lead into contact with the tin which will complete our circuit. 

First bend the top tabs of our tin into a U shape so we can rough everything into place. Then place the motor so that the bottom lead is in firm contact with the battery while the other lead is pressed against the metal of our tabs.

(You might want to put a piece of paper or tape over the top of the battery to keep our robot quiet while we're working on him.)

Very carefully crimp this closed with pliers. You want the motor to stay in place, but you don't want to damage the casing of the motor.



Troubleshooting:
It doesn't go at all.
First be sure that the motor leads are touching the things they need to touch, and only those things. One should be touching the top of the battery and the other should be firmly pressed against our tin framework.
Check for shorts. Make sure that the only bit of metal touching the top of the battery is
Make sure that there is nothing keeping the weight at the top from spinning.

It falls over more than I'd like.
There are several ways you can counteract this.
Bend the motor back towards the center of the battery so its center of gravity is more in the middle.
Bend down the corners of the "front" of bottom platform.
It might be too vigorous, you can try letting the battery run down a bit so it doesn't jump as much.
Try a different surface. I found that a pad of paper was the most reliable. On a harder surface they'll bounce easier.
Get out a file and remove some of the weight from the top of the motor.

It falls over less than I'd like or doesn't act very drunkenly.
Give it a double whiskey neat and wait 10 minutes.
You might be using an under powered battery., especially if you're using a bigger motor. Try a fresh battery or a more powerful cell. (If you use a different battery you'll need to rework the tin holder.
Make sure the motor isn't shaking lose. If it is, a dab of glue or tape can take care of your troubles.

DOWNLOADS: 





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Automated Periodic Bell using 12C Protocol

INTRODUCTION:

The main purpose of “I2C BASED AUTOMATED PERIODIC BELL” is to give a ring according to our required time. Instead of operating bell manually, the task will be performed by automation method. In order to automate the bell here, we are using I2C protocol.   CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD THE COMPLETE AUTOMATED BELL PROJECT

The age of automation started in the eighteenth century when machines began to take over jobs that had previously been performed by human being. If we operate the bell manually, there occurs some time delay and also it is difficult task to perform regularly. So, in order to avoid such kind of problems we are going for automation.  
I2C is a bus developed in 1980’s by Philips Semiconductors to connect integrated Circuits (ICs). The standard I2C bus may operate as a multi master bus: Multiple ICs may be connected to the I2C bus and each one may act as a master by initiating a data transfer. Serial 8-bit oriented, bi-directional data transfers may be made at up to 100 kbit/s in a standard mode or up to 400 kbit/s in a fast mode. The I2C bus may include two bus lines, a serial data line (SDL) and a serial clock line (SCL).

           The main components involved in the project are DS1307, ULN2003,relay,LCD, LED, Micro controller (AT89C51). The Microcontroller is used as Master device and DS1307 (real time clock) is used as slave device. By providing communication between these two devices the bell is set for ring. The communication between these two devices is established by means of I2C bus. 

At first the bus is initiated by the master, by transferring START bit, when the SCL line is HIGH. Then address is transferred on SDA line by making the SCL line as LOW, and then followed by STOP bit when the SCL line is HIGH. Slave device after receiving the data correctly, sends an acknowledgement to master device informing that the data is received, according to the clock generated by the master. Then 
master device retrieves the data from the particular location and displays it on the LCD.


DESCRIPTION:

The AT89C51 is a low-power, high performance CMOS 8 – bit micro computer with 4 Kbytes of flash Erasable and Programmable Read Only Memory (EPROM).The device is manufactured using a Atmel’s high density nonvolatile memory technology and is compatible with the industry standard MCS-51tm instruction act and pin out. The on-chip flash allows the program memory to be reprogrammed in-system or by a conventional nonvolatile memory programmer. By combining a versatile 8-bit CPU with flash on a monolithic chip, the AT89C51 is a powerful microcomputer which provides a highly flexible and cost effective solution to many embedded control applications.

Features:

• Compatible with MCS-51st products.

 • 4 Kbytes of in-system reprogram able flash memory.

 • Fully static operation: 0 Hz to 24 MHz.

 • Three-level program Memory Lock.

 • 128*8-Bit Internal RAM.

 • 32 Programmable I/O Lines.

 • Two 16-Bit Timer/Counters.

 • Six Interrupt sources.

 • Programmable Serial Channel.

Idle mode:

In idle mode, the CPU puts itself to sleep while all the on chip peripherals remain active. The mode is invoked by software. The content of the on-chip RAM and all the specific functions registers remain unchanged during this mode. The idle mode can be terminated by any enabled interrupt or by a hardware reset. It should be noted that when idle is terminated by a hardware reset, the device normally resumes program execution, from where it left off, up to two machine cycles before the internal reset algorithm takes control. On-chip hardware inhibits access to internal RAM in this event, but access to the port pins is not inhibited. To eliminate the possibility of an unexpected write to a port pin when Idle is terminated by reset, the instruction following the one that invokes Idle should not be one that writes to port pin or to external memory.

 Power-down Mode

 In the power –down mode ,the oscillator is stopped ,and the instruction that invokes power –down is the last instruction executed .The on-chip RAM and Special Function Registers retain their values until the power –down mode is terminated. The only exit from power –down is a hard ware reset .Rest redefines the SFRs but does not change the on-chip RAM .The reset should not be activated before VCC is restored to its normal operating level and must be held active long enough to allow the oscillator to restart and stabilize.

CONCLUSION:

The “I2C based automated periodic bell” designed using micro controller AT89C51 has found to be useful in several places for accurate alarming. Periodically ringing has been achieved by using modern technology protocol called I2C protocol. In this, communication is successfully achieved between master and slave device. Replacing I2C protocol by SM-bus, CAN and other advanced protocols, better accurate results can be achieved.

 Microcontroller’s full capacity can be utilized by adding more controls to the system. The capacity of number of slaves depends up on the communication bus need.

 This project can be extended by making the LCD to display not only date, day, time, but also the period that is going on at present, in school, colleges. This can also be used in churches, temples, industries.

DOWNLOADS:








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Easiest LED CUBE Using Arduino


INTRODUCTION:

This is the most simplest of the Designs you would get for a GOOD perfect 4*4*4 LED cube. LED cube Project uses Arduino and the design is simple enough that you can complete in around about 2 hours.
The CODE is available at the bottom as well.

One might think that aurdino has only 14 I/O pins but  we can also use 6 analog pins, So with them we have  enough pins to make our LED CUBE of ( 16 columns + 4 layers = 20 I/O pins )

LED CUBE Project just involves a bit of soldering so we will guide you on that through out this project.
CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD THE LED CUBE CODE




WHAT DO WE NEED:

1-     64 LEDS  Any color you want
2-     Connection wires
3-     Aurdino Demulionove

Optional
1-     32 male pin strip
2-     PCB prototype board
3-     Fine Grit (400 +) sand paper

Your choice
64 resistors or 16
you can get 64 resistors which will help by keeping all the lights at the same light out put regardless of how many are on but it will be considerably more work.

Tools:
1-     Computer
2-     Soldering Iron
3-     Solder
4-     thin nose pliers

I used GREEN LEDs so i used 100 Ohms Resistors you can use any other color and consult this website CLICK HERE FOR RESISTOR VALUES for your resistor values.



SOLDERING AND ASSEMBLY:



In this step you will need the board and the wiring. First you will want to map out were all the wires will go and then feed the wires through the board. Don't mind the LED and resistor note on the picture for now.

NOTE: I recommend you use Different color wire just because you won't get confused which wire is which.


DEFUSE THE LED:

The reason i recommend you to defuse the LED with a sand paper is that after defusion the LED's light will be uniform and will look better , all you have to do is just rub it with sand paper. A small piece will do the job. ITS OPTIONAL THOUGH!

HOW TO CONSTRUCT THE CUBE:

Now there is the Easy way to do this and that is to connect all the (--) in one layer and then the columns (+) to the resistor and then board. (Look at picture diagram below) what happens is when you turn it on (all of them) the lights are dimmer then when one is on.
My solution to this was to solder a 100 ohm resistor to each LED. (Follow picture instruction on how to do it.) Everything is done in the same way only now you solder all the resistors to the column which is a piece of Ethernet wire. (See picture)


HERE IS THE CODE FOR THE LED CUBE:


CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD THE LED CUBE CODE



DOWNLOADS:

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD THE LED CUBE PROJECT REPORT




Please Write to Us about this Project 

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